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The Municipal Hall in the
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Toodyay
Charming
and historic township
The charming and historic town of Toodyay is located
85 km from Perth. Situated on the Avon River Toodyay is a quiet place
with just a hint of alternative lifestyle. It is a place which is ideal
for day trippers from the city and which offers enough historic
buildings and old world charm to satisfy any urban dweller.
The first European into the area was Ensign Dale who led a
party from the Swan River into the upper reaches of the Avon Valley in
October 1831.
It is said that the name Toodyay is a corruption of the local
Aboriginal word 'duigee' which supposedly meant 'place of plenty'. This
name related to the richness and fertility of the area and the
reliability of the Avon River.
The area was opened up for European settlement in 1836
when a group of early settlers including James Drummond Snr (whose work
collecting native flora did much to increase and understanding of
Western Australia's extraordinarily rich wildflowers), Captain Francis
Whitfield and Alexander Anderson blazed a trail from the Swan River to
the present site of Toodyay. Prior to the establishment of this new
route Europeans had been entering the Upper Avon Valley via the
settlements at York and Northam.
The trail established by Drummond, Whitfield and
Anderson was far from satisfactory. They had reached the valley by
climbing over the Darling Range at Red Hill and descending into the
Avon Valley at Jimperding where the hills were steep and difficult to
traverse. The route remained for nearly 20 years until convicts built a
better road which reduced the journey from Perth by 12 hours.
In the 1850s the original town was abandoned because of
continuous flooding of the Avon River. The local Aborigines knew of the
dangers of the original site. It has been claimed that they used to
joke about even the kangaroos getting bogged in the mud left after the
floods.
A new town was built 2 km further upstream and named
Newcastle in 1861. The inevitable confusion with Newcastle in New South
Wales resulted in it being renamed Toodyay in 1911.
One rather quirky moment in the town's history occurred
in 1876 when the explorer Ernest Giles reached the town after crossing
the Great Victoria Desert. In his memoirs he recounted the reception he
received upon arriving in Toodyay (Newcastle).
'We were received under a triumphal arch, and the
chairman presented us with an address. We were then conducted to a
sumptuous banquet. Near the conclusion, the chairman rose to propose
our healths, etc; he then gratified us by speaking disparagingly of us
and our journey; he said he didn't see what we wanted to come over here
for, that they had plenty of explorers of their own etc. This was
something like getting a hostile native's spear stuck into one's body.'
Today Toodyay is so impressive that the whole town has
been classified by the National Trust.
Things to see:
Connors Mill
The obvious starting point in town is Connors Mill,
which is also known as the Moondyne Gallery & Toodyay Tourist Centre.
Built in 1870 to grind the locally grown wheat the mill has been
converted into a three level tourist centre and gallery. The most
interesting part of the building is undoubtedly the top level where
there is a very detailed presentation of the life of the local 'hero'
Moondyne Joe.
Moondyne Joe's major claim to fame is that he was Western
Australia's most famous bushranger. His real name was Joseph Bolitho
Johns. He was the son of a Welsh blacksmith who was transported for ten
years for stealing three loaves of bread, some cheese and a piece of
mutton.
Joe arrived in Perth in 1853 and became a ticket of leave man
working at the tiny settlement of Moondyne. It was here that he branded
an unmarked horse and was gaoled in Toodyay for the 'felony'. He
managed to escape but in the process (and this is where the romance of
Moondyne Joe really starts) he stole the Resident Magistrate's horse
and bridle. This was the beginning of a cat and mouse game which 'Joe'
and the law played for the next forty years.
He was recaptured and charged with branding the
original horse, escaping from gaol and stealing the second horse and
bridle. His sentence was three years. He served the three years but
soon after his release was convicted of shooting a steer (he protested
his innocence) and sentenced to ten years. It was this conviction,
which he regarded as unfair and which prompted his escape soon after.
He was recaptured and placed in irons but managed to escape again.
Around this time that Joe, leading a number of other escaped
convicts, began robbing stores in the Avon Valley with a view to
building up supplies to make an attempt to cross from Western Australia
to the eastern colonies. On 17 September 1866 he robbed Everett's Store
in Toodyay while Governor Hampton was staying in town. The robbery was
notable for the fact that Joe and his compatriots managed to escape
with guns, supplies, clothing, ammunition, and, of all things,
'thirty-six fancy ladies handkerchief'. How they intended to use the
handkerchiefs on their journey across Australia was never explained.
This daring and successful robbery helped create a
legend that Joe had cut off the Governor¹s beard. He was captured on 29
September and sent back to Fremantle where he was chained by the neck
to a post. A special cell be built for Joe in Fremantle Gaol and when
it was completed the Governor proudly declared that if Joe escaped from
such a strong cell he would be given him his freedom. Joe remained in
the cell for only four months. Due to ill health he was allowed into
the exercise yard where he was given stones to break. In one of the
most extraordinary escapes ever to occur at Fremantle Gaol he built the
stones up against the wall, dug through the wall, left his clothes
hanging near the wall giving the impression that he was still inside
the prison, and made his getaway in his underwear. This time his escape
was successful and he remained free for nearly two years.
He was recaptured at Houghton's wine cellar where he
had gone for a drink to celebrate his two years of freedom. At the time
he had long flowing hair, was wearing a wheat sack and had a large
stick as his only form of protection. He returned to Fremantle where he
remained for the next four years until he was once again given a
'ticket of leave'.
Joe finally became a free man in 1873. He subsequently
married a widow, Louisa Hearn, and became something of a celebrated
dandy living in the southwest of the state where, amongst other
achievements, he discovered the cave near Margaret River which bears
his name.
In 1887 he returned to Toodyay and from there he
travelled to the goldfields where, although he was now 60 years old, he
prospected for some years. After the death of his wife he returned to
the coast and lived in Kelmscott where he gained a reputation for
insanity being known as 'Old Mad' Moondyne Joe. He died in the
Fremantle Lunatic Asylum on 13 August 1900.
This is the story, as far as the facts can be
ascertained, of the state's most famous bushranger. Time and legend
have conspired to make him a far more adventurous and daredevil
character than this portrayal suggests. There is an excellent detailed
account of the legend and the history of the man by Ian Elliot titled
Moondyne Joe: The Man and the Myth. The display in Connor¹s Mill
provides information on this interesting and larger-than-life character.
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St Stephens Church of England
built in 1862
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Other Important Buildings
Other important buildings in this historic town
include St Stephens Church of England built in 1862. The church still
has pews which were sawn and built by convicts.
The Old Gaol (sometimes referred to as the Old Newcastle Gaol
Museum) in Clinton Street is a superb stone building which was
completed in 1862. It consists of a number of cells, a kitchen,
constable's quarters, storeroom and exercise yard and is a fine example
of a small provincial gaol. It was used originally as a prison, later
it became a hiring depot for convicts and was eventually the local
police station until it was rented as a private house. It remained as a
private dwelling until 1940 after which it fell into disrepair. It was
acquired by the local council in 1862 and today houses a very fine folk
museum collection which gives an insight into the lifestyle of the
district¹s early inhabitants.
Near the Old Gaol are the Police Stables which
were built around 1890 to house the horses used by the town's mounted police.
The Old Victoria Hotel (1899) in the main street is
typical of the charm of the town. The upstairs verandah looks more like
a wave than a verandah. It seems to be twisting and collapsing in a
myriad of different directions.
The Freemason's Hotel (1861) started life as a simple single
storey building but with the riches from the goldfields flowing back to
the west it upgraded and became an important watering hole for wealthy miners.
Further up the main street is the Municipal Hall and
the Toodyay Public Library building (1874) which are notable for the
charming old style lamp posts outside.
Toodyay Heritage Trails
There is an excellent and unusual Heritage Trail
brochure, Toodyay Pioneer Heritage Trail: Early Settlement of Toodyay
in the Avon Valley, Western Australia which does not cover the major
tourist buildings in the town but rather concentrates on the original
route to the town as well as the remnants of the original township
which was abandoned after it had been seriously flooded in 1847, 1849
and 1859.
It is advisable to start any exploration of Toodyay by
visiting Connors Mill where maps of the main features in town are
available free of charge. The manager of the Mill is a mine of
information and is eager to help people enjoy the interesting history
of the town and the surrounding area.
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Tourist Information
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Toodyay Tourist Centre
Connors Mill
P.O. Box 67
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2435
Facsimile: (08) 9574 2431
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Motels
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Victoria Motel/Hotel
Stirling Tce
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2206
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Victoria Restaurant
Stirling Tce
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2206
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Hotels
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Freemasons Hotel
125 Stirling Terrace
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2201
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ToodyayTavern
86 Stirling Tce
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2250
Facsimile: (08) 9574 2267
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Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
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Avondown Inn Guesthouse
Lot 44 Stirling Tce
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2995
Rating: ***
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Lavender Cottage Bed & Breakfast
5 Duke St
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 4189
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Pecan Hill Guesthouse
59 Beaufort St
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2636
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Farm & Eco Holidays
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Julimar Springs Health & Holiday Farm
Julimar Rd
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2696
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Lodges & Chalets
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Ipswich View Homestead Lodge
Lot 45 Folewood Rd
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 4038
Rating: ****
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Caravan Parks
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Avon Valley National Park (Limited Facilities)
35km W of Post Office
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2435
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Broadgrounds Park
Stirling Drive
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2534
Rating: **
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Toodyay Caravan Park
Avon Bank
Railway Road
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2612
Rating: ***
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Restaurants
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Cino's on the Terrace
102 Stirling Terrace
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 4888
Facsimile: (08) 9574 4999
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Freemasons Hotel
125 Stirling Tce
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2201
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Toodyay Junction Roadhouse
28 Stirling Tce
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2478
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Toodyay Roadhouse
143 Stirling Tce
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2252
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ToodyayTavern
86 Stirling Tce
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2250
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Vicarandah Room
Victoria Hotel
Stirling Tce
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 2206
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Cafés
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Cino's on the Terrace
102 Stirling Terrace
Toodyay
WA
6566
Telephone: (08) 9574 4888
Facsimile: (08) 9574 4999
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