Mount Toolbrunup - the Stirling Ranges near Cranbrook

Cranbrook (including Frankland and the Sterling Ranges National Park)
The Gateway to the Stirling Ranges National Park
Located 318 km south east of Perth, Cranbrook is a tiny, rather inconsequential service centre for the surrounding sheep and cattle country. It is a typical small rural centre with a single pub, some wheat silos and grain loading facilities.

Cranbrook's one real point of interest is that, as a huge sign proudly announces, it is 'The Gateway to the Sterlings' and the Stirling Ranges are one of the true natural wonders of Western Australia.

The first European to sight the majestic Stirling Ranges was Ensign Dale who, in 1832, passed through the area and climbed Mount Toolbrunup. He was followed three year later by the Surveyor General John Septimus Roe, who named the range after Captain Stirling, the Governor of the Swan River Colony. Roe has left us with impressions of the Range which remain unchanged today. In his journal he was lyrical in his praise of this beautiful range.

'The Stirling Range burst on our view in great magnificence as we rounded the crest...The whole extent of the conical summits were spread before us.'

A flowering gum and bottle brushes in Stirling National Park

The Colonial botanist, James Drummond, made a number of visits to the Ranges in the 1840s and began the process of scientific exploration which has revealed that there are over 1000 types of flora in the Park of which 60 are unique to the area. Driving through the area, or better still, exploring the park along the many trails and bushwalks, reveals a richness of flora and fauna set against the breathtaking beauty of the ranges which rise sharply from the surrounding plains.

The area was first settled in the 1860s when pastoralists started grazing sheep near Round Swamp. With its mild temperatures and good rainfall (annual average of 510 mm) it was ideal sheep country.

Cranbrook came into existence in the 1880s when the railway line connected the area to Albany. The railway siding was named Cranbrook by the Hon. J. A. Wright who was in charge of construction of the railway station. He was honouring his birthplace, Cranbrook in England.

Things to see:  

Stirling Range National Park
The great attraction of the Cranbrook area is the Stirling Range National Park which boasts 15 peaks over 900 m and 50 peaks above 600 m. The drive through the Park, most of it on good dirt roads, is one of the wonders of Western Australia. Here is an area of great diversity and beauty with huge varieties of flora and fauna.

Stirling Range Heritage Trail
There are a number of major walking trails in the Stirling Range National Park. The Stirling Range Heritage Trail brochure, which provides an adequate map of all routes and interesting information on flora in the park, provides the following advice on each track:

MT MAGOG 8 km return. Hard, 3-4 hours

Please note there is no path for the final 1 km to the summit.

MT TALYUBERLUP 3 km return. Moderate, 2 hours

Caverns and precipitous rocks at the summit of this mountain make this an exciting climb.

MT HASSELL 4 km return. Moderate, 2-3 hours

At present this walk commences at the picnic area but is due to be relocated to the new car park soon.

MT TOOLBRUNUP 4 km return. Hard, 3 hours

This walk is often regarded as the best in the Park. Excellent views from the summit, and dramatic rocky outcrops provide spectacular scenery.

Trails are steep and rough. Carry water and be prepared for weather changes.'

To which information can be added, from the Cranbrook: Gateway to the Stirling Range brochure (which is available in most stores around Cranbrook), the practical observations that Toolbrunup is 'One of the best climbs and the most spectacular 360 degree view', that Talyuberlup has 'terrific views and is easier to climb' and that Mount Hassell is good 'to tackle if your young children are going with you'. This very handy brochure also nominates places through the park where particular species of flora - scarlet banksia, Cranbrook bells, dryandra etc - can be easily located.

Driving through the Stirling Ranges it is impossible not to be overwhelmed by the richness of the native flora. Beside the road orchids, flowering gums, blackboys, orchids and the unique Cranbrook Bell catch the eye.

The very useful CALM brochure Stirling Range and Porongurup National Parks (available free from the CALM offices in the area and from Tourist Bureaus) describes the geology of the area in terms of 'The Range was formed over 1000 million years ago when this area was a shallow sea and sediment was deposited on the granite lowland. After the sea receded the area of the range sank. The surrounding area gradually eroded back to basic granite and the Range was slowly uplifted, eventually weathering to its present form. The Chester and Red Gum passes mark the courses of river that flowed south during the early stages of formation. Ripple marks can still be seen on the exposed rock.'

MONDURUP PEAK

N.B. Access to Mondurup Peak has been permanently closed by Department of Conservation and Land Management. The peak is relatively free of 'Dieback', a devastating soil dwelling fungus, and access has been closed to prevent walkers spreading infected soil in the vicinity of threatened declared rare flora communities. 80 rare species occur in the park and are found nowhere else in the world.

Frankland
47 km west of the Cranbrook is the small settlement of Frankland. In recent times its two major wineries - the Alkoomi Vineyard (08 9855 2229 and the Frankland River Vineyard (08 9855 1563 - have won numerous awards. There is a Frankland Heritage Trail brochure which is remarkable for the fact that, in a journey of 160 km, most of the attractions - the Old Frankland Hall, the Old School, Andy Ronald's Accident, Haynesdale School, Bokerup Homestead - are all now only sites. The buildings and events are now long demolished or departed.

	Tourist Information
	Cranbrook Tourist Information Centre Gateway General Store Great Southern Hwy Cranbrook WA 6321 Telephone: (08) 9826 1018
	Hotels
	Cranbrook Hotel Gathorne St Cranbrook WA 6321 Telephone: (08) 9826 1002 Rating: *
	Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
	Karinya Bed & Breakfast 128 Grantham St Cranbrook WA 6321 Telephone: (08) 9826 1199 Rating: **
	Caravan Parks
	Cranbrook Caravan Park Mason St Cranbrook WA 6321 Telephone: (08) 9826 1068 Rating: **