The War Memorial with the Clock Tower in the background

Camperdown
Substantial rural service centre.
Camperdown is an attractive rural service centre of 3500 people located at the foot of Mount Leura, 193 km south-west of Melbourne on the Princes Highway. It is distinguished by a fine 2-km avenue of elms along the main street and is situated on the world's third-largest volcanic plain which is dotted with volcanic cones (Mount Leura being the largest in the local area) and numerous lakes which have formed in volcanic craters. The local economy is dominated by dairying, fat lambs and cattle. There is a sales yard in town and Bonlac milk products have a plant, although the main works are at Cobden.

Prior to European settlement it is though that the Kuurn Kopan Noot Aborigines lived in the area. The first whites in the area were probably a search party looking for missing explorers Gellibrand and Hesse in 1837. The first settlers in the district were John, Thomas and Peter Manifold from Van Dieman's Land. They took up a 100 000-acre run in 1839 called 'Purrumbete', based on the northern shore of Lake Purrumbete. Their first hut was replaced by Purrumbete homestead in 1842 and it is still standing. Funds were later provided by the family for a public hospital, a road to the top of Mount Leura, extensions to the high school library and the town's fine clock tower.

In 1841 George Robinson, Chief Protector of Aborigines, visited 'Purrumbete' and submitted a report on the relations between the Manifolds and the local Aborigines: 'The Manifolds stated that they did not allow the natives to come to their huts. At first they did so and the natives were very useful. But when they were getting their potatoes they detected the natives stealing them and sent them away. At another time they lost some sheep and went to the stony rises (see entry on Colac) to see if they could find anything out, when they were suddenly surrounded by natives who gave them battle'.

On the other hand James and Isabella Dawson, two tireless defenders of the Aborigines, later settled on nearby 'Wuurong' farm. James wrote Australian Aborigines: The Language and Customs of Several Tribes of Aborigines in the Western District of Victoria, Australia (1881). An Aboriginal reserve was established on the townsite in the 1860s.

Thomas Alexander Browne (aka Rolf Boldrewood), arguably Australia's first novelist of any note, passed by Lake Purrumbete in 1843 while overlanding 1000 head of cattle to his own property further west.

Another literary figure with more direct connections to Camperdown was John Streeter Manifold (born in 1915), a descendant of the original squatters, who became a noted poet and a composer and editor of Australian folk songs. His far-left political views estranged him from his family and he was forced to cut his connection with his family's property although the impact of the landscape on his imagination is regarded as evident in his work.

A town known as Old Timboon began to develop at a site about 3 km north of Camperdown in the early 1850s. Duncan McNicol built the first store - a crude slab hut with a canvas door. However, the land was regarded as too marshy by the government surveyor who travelled to, and approved, the present townsite. After sleeping overnight at the foot of Mount Leura he records that he 'awoke to the musical chorus of the magpie and kookaburra singing from a tree-belt which sparkled in the sun as jewels set in a seemingly endless countryside. There are miles of fertile plains, hills and valleys surrounding the mount - all suitable for development.' The first house was built on the townsite in 1853 where the Commercial Hotel now stands. Postal services commenced the following year and the first hotel opened in 1857.

Governor Latrobe chose the new township's name in 1854. It is said that he initially suggested the name 'Duncan' after Timboon settler Duncan McNicol but his companion on a kangaroo shoot, Niel Black (see entry on Terang), thought it a poor choice and, so, Latrobe thought of 'Camperdown' as the Earl of Camperdown was an Admiral Duncan who won his title due to his efforts in a 1797 naval battle.

When James Bonwick visited the town in 1857 he recorded that Camperdown was 'romantically situated upon the slope of that grand old volcano, Leura...The soil is of the richest description, and the gardens around...testify to its goodness. I was quite surprised to find that a population of 400 people could do with only one public house; fortunately that one is out of the township, else a thirstier habit would have been long since produced'.

A courthouse, the Leura Hotel, a school, a police station, a survey office and a store were all being erected in 1859 and a Presbyterian Church was established in 1860. A Bible Christian Church was completed in 1862 and St Paul's Anglican Church in 1864. The first post office, constructed in 1863, is still standing.

A regular coach service from Geelong to Warrnambool commenced in the 1860s, stopping at Camperdown en route. The early 1870s saw Cobb & Co commence a regular service between Warrnambool and Camperdown

Garnet Walch visited the town in 1880, noting a population 'of about 2000'. Another late 19th-century visitor, who was charmed with Camperdown, was English novelist Anthony Trollope.

The railway arrived in 1883 and a cheese factory opened in 1891 at a time when the area was dominated by a few large landowning graziers who controlled the factory while the smaller landholders tended to supply the milk. A large cooperative dairy factory was established in 1914. Camperdown became a municipality in 1952 and a town in 1959.

A craft market is held in Finlay Ave on the first Sunday of each month from 9.30 a.m. to 3.00 p.m., tel: (03) 5593 1177. The Leura Festival is held in the last week of February and a heritage day is celebrated on the first Sunday in November.

Things to see:  

Tourist Information
Tourist information is provided by Fragrant Cottage (see subsequent entry) in Manifold St. It is open weekdays from 9.30 a.m. to 5.00 p.m., Saturdays from 9.30 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. and Sundays from 11.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m., tel: (03) 5593 3390.

Camperdown & District Historical Society Museum
At 241 Manifold St, between Gibson St and Brooke St, is the Camperdown Museum which is housed in the former Oddfellows Hall, built in 1896. It houses a collection of Aboriginal artefacts, farm and domestic implements, photographs, clothing and maps. The museum is open Tuesday, Friday and Sunday from 2.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m. There is a small admission fee, tel: (03) 5593 1883.

Heritage Walk 1 - Manifold St West
Outlined below is a walk taking in the town's heritage buildings, starting with Manifold St (the Princes Highway). The main street features a 2-km plantation of elm trees which were established by school children in 1876. This is known as Finlay Ave to honour A.G. Finlay and his son who donated the trees.

From the museum, cross over to the northern side of Manifold St. At the intersection with Harrison St (on the north-eastern corner) is the masonic lodge hall (1867).

Walk east to the corner with Bath St where you will find the Hampden Hotel (1910). On the other side of Bath St is the mechanics' institute (1890). Within the plantation is a stone cross which functions as a memorial to Daniel Curdie, the first shire president and the town's first medical practitioner. It is said that he was also well-respected by the local Aboriginal people.

Camperdown Post Office

Continue east along Manifold St, passing the State Bank building (1905). The bluestone building at the Church St corner was built in 1863 as the town's first post office building which is still used for its original purpose. Its telegraph office transmitted the first news of the Loch Ard shipwreck in 1878, during which 54 people died (see entry on Port Campbell).

Heritage Walk 1 - The Clock Tower
Opposite the post office, in the central plantation, is the Boer War Memorial. Just to its east, at the intersection of Manifold, Church and Pike Sts, is the town's centrepiece, in the form of an excellent 35-metre, red-brick Gothic-style clock tower with a mansard roof. It was erected in 1896-97 with 1000 pounds bequeathed from the estate of Thomas Manifold (the third son of John Manifold, the first European settler in the area) who was killed in a hunting accident in 1895. The tower was designed by local architect, Michael McCabe.

The clock itself was made in England. It is rewound once a week by means of a hand-operated crank. The chimes initially sounded every quarter of an hour 24 hours a day but complaints by residents of the nearby Leura Hotel saw a device installed in 1907 to silence the chimes from 11.00 p.m. to 6.00 a.m. except those which occur on the hour.

The tower is open on the first Sunday of each month when it is possible to climb to the top (via 95 steps) and enjoy the views. Group bookings are available by appointment, tel: (03) 5593 1177.

Heritage Walk 1 - Courthouse/Fragrant Cottage
Opposite the clock tower, on the southern side of Manifold St (at the corner with McNicol St), is the town's former courthouse. Built 1886-87 this solid and distinguished High Victorian building features some outstanding polychromatic brickwork. It currently houses Fragrant Cottage which offers a range of patchwork and specialty needlework, furniture, countryware and gifts. It also functions as the town's tourist information centre and it is open weekdays from 9.30 a.m. to 5.00 p.m., Saturdays from 9.30 a.m. to 4.00 p.m. and Sundays from 11.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m., tel: (03) 5593 3390.

Heritage Walk 1 - Manifold St East
On the same side of Manifold St, just to the west of the courthouse, are the two-storey Italianate shire hall (1885) and the National Bank building (c.1913).

Cross over McNicol St to the Leura Hotel (1902), built on the site of the town's first public house (1857). Continue east along Manifold St. At no.159 is the former Commercial Bank building (c.1901). At no.153 are the former Stansmore livery stables (1910). This was one of the largest such businesses in the Western District of Victoria.

At the corner of Manifold and Leura Sts is the Commercial Hotel (1907) which was erected on the site of the town's first dwelling (1853). Cross over Manifold St, taking in the 20-metre obelisk which is the town's World War I Memorial (1929).

Just to the west, on Manifold St, are the offices of the Camperdown Chronicle (1874) which is still in operation today.

Walk east again, crossing over Cressy St. On the corner is the former Thomas' garage (c.1920). A little further east, at 96 Manifold St, is the former Bible Christian Church (1862). The manse sits adjacent.

Heritage Walk 2
For those wishing to extend their walk the next section (2 km) takes in heritage buildings on the northern side of the highway.

Return west along Manifold St and turn right into Cressy St. Just past Tait St, at no.24, is 'Tea Pot Cottage' (c.1870), built for one of the town's earliest butchers. At the next intersection turn left into Ower St.

Heritage Walk 2 - The Camperdown Buggy Museum
At 28 Ower St is the Camperdown Buggy Museum which features a collection of some 20 traps and buggies which date back to c.1880. All are from the local area. There is also a hobby horse from 1820, an early bicycle and a 1912 street cab which once worked the streets of Camperdown. It is open most days and admission is by donation. Ring prior to visiting, tel: (03) 5293 1119.

Heritage Walk 2 Continued
At the western end of Ower St turn right into Pike St. At the end of Pike St is the town's railway station (1883).

From here walk east along Jones St, turn left into Cole St then right into Paton St. At the T-intersection turn left, heading south along Church St. To the right is St Paul's Church of England (1864) and the adjacent bluestone vicarage. The church features some outstanding stained-glass window work. On the northern side of St Paul's is the church hall, built in 1896 from a legacy left by the estate of Thomas Manifold, which also funded the clock tower. The hall served as an Anglican school from 1904 to 1923. On its northern side is the former school hostel and teacher's residence (1904).

Return south along Church St. At no.20, by the Fergusson St intersection, is a late Victorian villa known as 'Malahide' which was built c.1890 to attract a doctor to the town.

Church St will return you to the clock tower on Manifold St.

Heritage Walk 3
The following walk (approximately 3 km) takes in heritage buildings on the southern side of the highway.

Start from the clock tower, heading south along McNicol St. To the left are some old gas lamps, which were in use until electricity arrived in 1908, and a bluestone building which was erected in 1857 as the stables for the Leura Hotel. It is the oldest extant building in town.

Turn left into Scott St. To the right, at no.43, is 'Penzance' (c.1859) which was originally the home of early shopkeeper James Tait. At 29 Scott St is the elegant residence known as 'Kinross' (1905).

Continue east along Scott St to the Curdie St intersection. On the north-east corner, at 3-5 Curdie St, is the old bluestone three-storey flour mill (1868) which became a produce store in 1889. The complex has been converted into luxury apartments and a restaurant.

Head south along Curdie St. Just across Scott St, in the central plantation, is a manna gum which is a rare survivor from the forest which existed on this site prior to European settlement.

Turn left off Curdie St into Campbell St. To the right, at no.9, is 'Keeyuga' (1902). This three-storey residence, with Gothic ornamentation, was the home of local architect, Michael McCabe, who designed the town's clock tower and Catholic Church.

Turn right into Adeney St with the Leura Oval to the left. At 18 Adeney St is a rustic-style cottage dating from c.1870.

Return a short distance along Adeney St and turn left into Barkly St. To the right, at no.12, is another Victoria-era cottage (c.1880) with a letterbox matching the design of the house.

Continue west along Barkly St to the Leura St intersection where you will find St Andrew's Presbyterian (now Uniting) Church and its bluestone manse. A section at the rear of the church is from the original 1860 Presbyterian church. The rest dates from 1901.

Continue along Barkly St to no.46 where you will find the two-storey townhouse 'Barkly Cottage' (c.1865) which was initially the home of squatter William Adeney.

Turn left into McNicol St. At the end of the road, cross over Brooke St and enter Dodds St. At no.6 is the bluestone house known as 'Cole's Cottage' (c.1865) which was originally the home of squatter Francis Cole.

Walk to the end of Dodds St and turn right into Wallis St. In the second block, to the right, is St Patrick's Catholic Church (1900), designed by Michael McCabe who was also responsible for the town's clock tower. It has since been extended. The presbytery dates from 1928.

Continue along Wallis St and turn right into Walker St and you will come to Victoria Square. An Aboriginal reserve was located here in the 1860s.

At the end of Walker St, cross over Brooke St and walk along Campbell St to the intersection with McNicol St. On the south-eastern corner, at 11 McNicol St, is 'Gilgae', a grand Edwardian home built in 1907.

Head north along McNicol St back to Manifold St and the clock tower.

Mount Leura and Mount Sugarloaf
Mount Leura, at the south-eastern corner of town, formed some time within the last 20 000 years. It consists of solidified lava which emerged from a vent in a volcanic crater. Although it is not of great height, Leura is the largest such cone in the area and it offers fine views of the surrounding landscape which, with its many crater lakes and cones, constitutes the world's third-largest volcanic plain.

Drive to the end of Lawrence St then turn into Mount Road which leads to a carpark near the summit (313 m above sea-level) from whence there are views over the crater and Mount Sugarloaf which stands adjacent to the south-west. Sugarloaf, which features a near-perfect conical shape, was purchased in 1970 by the National Trust to prevent it being further damaged by quarrying.

The Panorama Trail leads from the carpark, past a lookout and information site, around the crater of Mt Leura and up Mt Sugarloaf. The information site has a landmark turntable and information boards outlining the area's geomorphology. To the north-west are the sandstone ridges of the Grampians mountain range; to the north are Mount Meningoort (250 m), Mount Kurweeton and the bulk of Mount Elephant (420 m) with the Central Grampians in the distance; to the west are Mount Shadwell (300 m) and Mount Noorat (340 m); to the east Lake Purrumbete, Lake Corangamite and Mount Porndon; and, to the south, on a clear day, views extend as far south as the Southern Ocean.

Plans have been developed for more walking tracks, another carpark lower down Mt Leura, picnic facilities, further information boards and an education centre providing information and recreational activities related to the vegetation and geology and the natural and cultural history of the site and region. An extensive revegetation project is also under way. It is intended to remove most non-indigenous plant species and restore some of the pre-colonial flora.

Camperdown Botanic Gardens
Camperdown Botanic Gardens feature an arboretum, picnic/barbecue facilities and a lookout over nearby Lake Bullen Merri (to the south) and Lake Gnotuk (to the north). Designed by William Guilfoyle, the gardens contain some rare examples of Himalayan oak and a statue of Scottish poet Robbie Burns. This statue was brought to Australia having once stood at Tydenham Castle, near London. There are picnic, barbecue, toilet and playground facilities, and a kiosk, tel: (03) 5593 1253.

There are several ways of accessing the Gardens which can be accessed off the southern end of Park Rd, to the west of the town centre. The most direct route is to turn west off Leura St (the Cobden Rd) into Fenton St. After 600 m cross over Bowen St and continue west along Park Lane for 1.3 km until you reach the fork in the road. Take the branch on the right. This road leads across Park Rd then straight through Camperdown Caravan Park to the gardens. There are other ways of getting onto Park Rd.

Lake Bullen Merri and Lake Gnotuk
Lake Bullen Merri and Lake Gnotuk sit adjacent each other 4 km west of town inside a twin volcanic crater known as a maar.

Despite their proximity their water levels differ by about 30 metres. Bullen Merri, at the higher elevation, is 3 km wide and reaches a depth of 66 m. Gnotuk reaches a depth of 31 m and is almost as wide as Bullen Merri. As its base is below the water table Bullen Merri is fed by underground springs. While its water is able to seep into Gnotuk, the latter has no outlet and evaporation has caused a build-up of salinity. Thus, while Bullen Merri's water is generally brackish, Gnotuk's is salty, although Bullen Merri's salinity is also increasing owing to evaporation (the perimeter of the lake is receding at the rate of 15 cm a year). Some of Bullen Merri's problems (erosion, land slips, eutrophication, sedimentation and loss of wildlife) arise from the clearing of dense vegetation from its foreshores and a large-scale revegetation project is currently under way.

Bullen Merri's beauty inspired noted Victorian artist Eugene von Guerard to paint Bullen Merri in 1858. It is still a migratory bird habitat and breeding ground for native fish. Visitors may be lucky enough to see kangaroos, wallabies, koalas, falcons, goshawks, kestrels, parrots and waterbirds.

Bullen Merri is an excellent fishing spot and a popular location for swimming, power-boating, watersking and sailing. There are picnic, barbecue and playground facilities and a boat ramp.

The Lakes are on Lake Bullen Merri Rd. The most direct route is to turn west off Leura St (the Cobden Rd) into Fenton St. After 600 m cross over Bowen St and continue west along Park Lane for 1.3 km until you reach the fork in the road. Take the branch on the left which is Lake Bullen Merri Rd. It leads past a turnoff on the left to North Beach on Lake Bullen Merri and on past another turnoff on the right to the golf club and a recreation park which lies between the two lakes. Small boats can be launched from the North Beach but there is a concrete ramp, a normal swimming area, a fenced swimming area for children, yachting and angling clubs at South Beach Reserve which can be reached by turning off the Camperdown-Cobden Rd, south of Camperdown.

Antiques and Bric-a-Brac
The Mammoth Mart is located at 261 Manifold St (tel: 03 5593 1277) and David Stevens Antiques is at 206 Mainfold St, tel: (03) 5593 3477. Silver Nickels is at 14 Church St, tel: (03) 5593 2174.

Timboon House and Craigieburn
Timboon House was built in the 1850s as 'Lake Inn' on a nascent townsite known as Old Timboon. As this land proved too marshy settlement shifted south to the present site of Camperdown and the hotel ceased to operate in 1859. It is a two-storey bluestone building with the original verandah now removed and is one of the oldest surviving inns of the Western District. The house is privately owned but can be seen from the roadside. To get there head north off the highway along Old Timboon Rd, at the western edge of Camperdown, then turn left into Old Geelong Rd.

'Craigieburn' is another remnant of old Timboon. This was the cottage of early settler, storekeeper and pastoralist Duncan McNicol. It features six rooms and was built of squared basalt rubble between 1851 and 1853. It is located on Depot Road - an extension of Meiklejohn St which also heads north off the Princes Highway on the western side of Camperdown.

Lake Purrumbete
Lake Purrumbete is situated within an ancient volcanic crater. It is considered an excellent fishing venue and there are plenty of pelicans, black swans, native ducks and other water birds, along with barbecue and picnic facilities, a boat ramp (on the south-western shore) and a caravan park. To get there head east along the Princes Highway for about several kilometres and turn right into Lake Purrumbete Rd which is well signposted from the highway.

Dry Stone Walls
Another feature of the area is the dry stone walls which were erected in the late 19th century by British immigrants. The object was to clear the fields of stone, demarcate boundaries and erect a barrier to rabbit infestation. They can be seen adjacent the highway en route to Colac.

Lake Bookar
North-west of Camperdown is Lake Bookar which is popular with windsurfers. There is a picnic reserve on the western shore. To get there head north-west along the Princes Highway for 5 km then turn right, heading north along the road to Darlington for about 9 km.

	Tourist Information
	Camperdown Information Centre Manifold St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 3390
	Motels
	A Cascade Motel 311 Manifold St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 1144 Rating: ***
	Amble-In Motel 71 Manifold St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 1646 Rating: **
	Manifold Motor Inn 295 Manifold St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 2666 Rating: ***
	Hotels
	Commercial Hotel 115 Manifold St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 1187 Rating: *
	Hampden Hotel Manifold St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 3185
	Leura Hotel 175 Manifold St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 1062 Rating: *
	Bed & Breakfast/Guesthouses
	Kooraweera Homestead Bed & Breakfast Elwood Rd Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 8235 Rating: ***
	Purrumbete Homestead 3551 Princes Hwy Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5594 7374 Facsimile: (03) 5594 7374 Email: info@purrumbete.com
	The Masters House 15 Church St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 2243
	Apartments
	The Mill Apartments 3-5 Curdie St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 2200 Rating: ****
	Caravan Parks
	Camperdown Caravan Park Park Rd Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 1253 Rating: ***
	Lake Purrumbete Camping Reserve County Boundary Rd Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5594 5377 Rating: **
	Restaurants
	A Cascade Motel 311 Manifold St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 1144
	Commercial Hotel Manifold St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 1187
	Coverdales Restaurant Paton St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: 018 523 869
	Golden Happiness Chinese Restaurant McNicol St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 1003
	Leura Hotel 175 Manifold St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 1062
	Lizzies On Manifold Manifold St Camperdown VIC 3260 Telephone: (03) 5593 1336